Day 15: 45 kilometers
Total: 458.1 kilometers
It was so worth it to stay in a hostal for my celebration of completing two weeks on the camino! I had a nice shower bath combo which I used and this place had heat that was on all night! It was so nice to be warm all night and also sleeping on a real bed! Bunk beds are fun but when you are as big as me it’s like fitting five people into a geo! It can be done but it’s not comfortable! So waking up this morning was a dream! No one to worry about waking up at 530 so I flicked the light and stretched, brushed my teeth and then packed my bag! I was ready to go and out the door by 6. Sun is officially up at 8’so it made for an interesting morning! I couldn’t see anything. But knew it was a straight shot! I saw signs out of town and made it to the old farm road in the dark. I turned my head lamp off and just went with the light of the million stars! It was so beautiful! I stopped many times to just spread my arms and feel it all! I could see so many shooting stars it was amazing! I saw the Milky Way and a few satellites too! This could have been quite possibly the best morning of my life! I walked in the dark perfectly contact with thinking I was on the right path and eventually saw some rivers which confirmed I was. The morning sun was peaking over the mountains behind me when a blanket of fog dropped down. It was absolutely beautiful. I love how things change so quickly. The fog came and the birds woke up too. I could barely see anything. But knew I was on the road and could hear a semi or two every now and then on the highway in the distance. I saw one more shooting star which erupted in the sky bright red and streaked across the entire sky before dissappearing! So incredible and it lasted for. A few seconds! I love these little moments! Well it became even better when the sun started to rise the trees started to appear in the fog. Absolutely incredible and beautiful. The sun finally burst through the clouds and illuminated the most amazing scene I have ever witnessed! I screamed and threw my hands up! I was in heaven this was it, it was so beautiful! With a smile on my face I finished the 17k that morning pretty quickly.
The next town wasn’t that far aways so I headed to Ledigos. I took the alternate route and it was so worth it. One route kept you next to the highway and the other that I took brought you up into the mountains with all the birds and rabbits and fields. There really weren’t any markings but it all felt right and with my shadow as my compass I was heading west so I was good with that. Eventually I saw a mark a few kilometers later and knew where I was and it was perfect! I loved that walk. I made it into Ledigos and was looking for a bar for a beer. I did a solid 23.5 k this morning and felt pretty good. A beer and a little rest always helps. So I went into the bar and you wouldn’t believe it! I found Valerio again! Most excellent! We sat outside on the back patio in the beautiful sunlight and cheered and talked about the camino and life and laughed and looked at maps. It was so good seeing him again! Maybe we will meet up later or maybe not, let the camino and our paths decide that for us! So he took off and I stayed for a little bit more to write some postcards and also enjoy the rest of my beer with the sun on my face on the back patio!
After that I headed to the next town called Terradillos de Templarios and found it to be mostly shut down so I kept going. I love not having a plan and just flowing with what feels right. I flowed into the next town of Moratinos which seemed like a cool town. I sat at the bar and ordered a bocadillo with jamon y queso y tomate. I sat outside again and enjoyed that late lunch so much. I saw Valerio in the distance climbing atop the cave homes. He was literally on the top and it was pretty cool. When he saw what he wanted he moved on. I enjoyed my bocadillo then refilled my water bottle and took off. The next little town called San Nicolas del Real Camino was cool looking too. I found a bar open and had a cafe to spark me up. I felt like heading a little bit more today to Sahagun.
When I arrived in Sahagun it seemed a little run down and the path brought you in the special way. Through boarded up homes and garbage… Ok so not the best first look at the city but the first Albergue was pretty impressive. A lot if the buildings and arches were impressive but I didn’t get a good vibe from the city so I decided to move on. I stopped to fill up at the athletic center on my way out and I was a bit tired but ready to be out of the city. The next town was Calzada de Coto just a quick 5 k away! I ventured out crossing my fingers that the Albergue was open! When I crossed the freeway and headed into town I could see kids playing soccer and basketball and many people! What was this?! A small town filled with people. It usually is the other way around! I made my way to the Albergue and saw that it had a paper on the door saying it was open! Yes! I swung open the door to find only one other person there in the big grand room. Ramiro from Madrid was there and we started talking. I needed a shower and the water was hot even though the room was not! Shower felt great and then I layed down finally for 15 minutes for a quick relax. Then Ramiro and I went out to the bar for dinner. I got menu 2 which was a full plate with potato and egg tortilla with a red pepper on top and half a head of lettuce with carrots and tomatoes! It also came with bread and a bottle of wine to share with Ramiro. It was such a great time. It had a desert at the end which was ice cream. I combined it with a piece of the bread that was left over and oh my goodness! I need to market this seriously! It was super delicious and even Ramiro tried it and agreed! I honestly haven’t truly laughed that much while just talking freely in a long time. Ramiro is a great guy and I’m so glad that I went the extra little bit to meet him. This are kinds of interactions that seem to happen less in a Albergue with 60 beds in one room like in Sahagun. After dinner we walked back laughing still and having a good time. I am planning on getting up early again and told Ramiro all about my morning experiences and he said that one of these days he will get up early and walk in the dark and watch the sunrise! So cool! Now I’m back at the Albergue and the owner came in and stamped our books. Then brought out a heater for us to use! This is amazing how perfect all these moments perfectly come up :). It is so so so good! I’m falling asleep from the long day so buenas noches, Pura Vida and buen camino!