Day 19: 40.5 kilometers
Total: 594.2 kilometers
I must have been really excited last night because I woke up at 323am! I catnapped all the way until 530 then sprung out of bed with grace and quietness I hope! I snuck out of the room without waking up anyone I think. Outside in the courtyard with still no sign of the hospitalero so I found the donation box and added my share, stamped my passport and was out on the streets! It only took a few steps before the most amazing moon popped out from behind a building, it was incredible! The stars were wild, the breeze was chilly, the road was flat. So much moon light that I didn’t need my headlamp. It was truly a magical morning! There were two routes just out of town. Road or nature…. Yea I went nature! I couldn’t get how amazing the night sky was and that moon! My oh my! I was flying all morning! Just before the next town the moon was going to set and I didn’t want to miss that so I sat down right there in the middle if the dirt road in a grove a trees on either side, the town lights dimly lit in front of me! This was truly epic! I watched the moon set and the stars do there thing! I saw the stars come out even brighter when the moon set! I saw my shooting star poetically fly across the sky and I smiled! This was a morning to remember!
After the moon set I did get up and start walking again. I love the nighttime walking. Monteverde, Costa Rica has made me a fish walker, as in I have walking scallllllles! (skills) I believe that because of my time in the mountains there and I’m pretty good at it too! At times I truly believe I can see vibrations all around me and it’s mesmerizing, nothing is solid and everything is moving – it’s how I manage in the morning with no light. I love it in the little towns how they take pride in the camino that passes through. Arrows are proudly displayed making it a breeze to go through. Some big cities have arrows all over the place, taking you to bars and albergues and lots just the wrong way! You have to stay on your toes in big cities but this small towns it is Hakuna matata! Just walk and you will be guided by all the peripheral arrowing! In the second small town of Santibañez I saw a light on in a cafe but no one to be scene. I tried the door and it opened! As soon as I sat down a beautiful smile came around the corner. I ordered a cafe and a muffin for breakfast and sat down to enjoy. We started talking about the camino once again only in Spanish. My face lit up with joy as we talked and already feeling power from the moon and stars I shot to a whole new level of excitement! We talked about how beautiful the camino is around here and it will get even more beautiful in the next few days! She even told me a secret spot just before the Cruz de Ferro! A waterfall off the camino! I don’t think anyone from the camino goes there but she said it was so beautiful I had to see it! She saw it in my eyes that I was here to find beauty not only in the people i meet but in the places I go. I wasn’t bounded by a guide with a checklist, I was free to explore and make this my camino! I was hooked and so excited! Maybe I will jump in its freezing waters! I am so excited this day had just started and it’s still dark but I feel like it’s the best day ever!
Walking west with the sun rising on my back made for a beautiful morning. The morning light is just gorgeous! The birds chirping and the dew melting makes every step a step in paradise! I really enjoyed this morning, like a lot, a lot a lot!!!
Not too far down the path I saw there was a Catina down the path. I saw it coming up the hill then I saw a person. Pretty sure I hung out with an angel. Davey is a genuine true spirit. He lives on the camino and has a free to pilgrim stand with fruits and natural juices and organic foods! He was brewing tea and coffee when I made it there in the morning light. He has the garden of the sun with rocks placed to make a rock sun. His bed is beautiful and faces the sun so at morning break he will get warmed up. Davey has been out here for six years and is just an amazing soul. His eyes are pure and his hugs are real. He must be an angel! The vibrations around his place just radiate love and pure joy and happiness. It vibrated through me and I stayed there with him for about an hour just talking. I showed him my hearts I’ve been making and his eyes lit up. His smile said it all. We were on the same page in our minds and it was so great to meet him. I’ve been thinking about his amazing spirit all morning. Sometimes you come across gems in life. This one I will keep in my heart forever. As I got up to start walking again I reached into my pack and gave him a palo santo stick which he immediately knew what it was. His eyes and smile thanked me enough but his hug sent energy throughout my soul. Truly a magical person in a magical place. I hope to return there again and spend more time with Davey the angel again one day!
I walked along and enjoyed my day! I talked to a lady from near Bilbao, Spain and she went with her group of adults and kids as much as they could for usually a long weekend like 4 days of walking. It was fun to talk with her. I talked to a few locals and also a girl from Romania who lives in Italy. She met my Italian friends Stefano and GianMarco and knew my name before I could introduce myself. She just started a day ago and the sun was getting her good. She was getting fried kind of like me but once again thank you Costa Rica for conditioning my skin. I picked up some sunscreen so I can double up that with the other lotion I’m using. When I finally arrived in Rabanal del Camino, I was stoked to be there. The group from Bilbao offerd to buy me dinner but I was ok and wanted to explore the town a bit. I went searching for the municipal Albergue but it was shut down for the season. Turned out that was an awesome thing because I went next door and I met Liz and her husband who just opened their Albergue yesterday! The love and the vibration of this place said drew me in and I chose to stay there and it was filled with Beautiful people who I enjoyed spending time with! I took a shower and then went out into the garden and hung my clothes then laid there in the grass and sun in my running shorts! It felt so good! There I started talking to Hailey who was walking backwards from Santiago to St. Jean Pied de Port. We had a great talk and enjoyed each other as well as the sun as we laid next to each other in the beautiful grass of the huge courtyard. Then I was getting hungry so I went out into one of the two shops and picked up enough to make an excellent sauce with my pasta. It smelled amazing and Hailey joined me for dinner. It smelled so good that she had to try some after she ate her meal! Made me feel so happy to see her enjoy it so much! Cooking is a passion filled with a lot of vitamin L right Christine Lynch?! Vitamin L is Love! Towards the end two guys from Germany came in and I shared the rest of the wine and cheese and olives and chocolate bar with them. They were great people and I had a fun time chatting both of them too! There was still a whole plate left over which I gave to the Hospitalero and they accepted with a gracious smile! They even invited me back to cook again!
Next was heading over to the church for a Thursday mass and pilgrim blessing! The priests were so super chill and were talking about getting me to the hippie village by Santiago and we all laughed after the mass and it was such a good blessing, I’m flying right now! When we all came back we sat in front of the cozy fire and just talked about the camino and life and everything in between it was filled with smiles and laughs and good vibrations!
Liz and her husband are such genuine nice people! You an feel it and see it in their eyes. I appreciate every thing that they do and hope to see them again one day! Lights out and time for bed!
Pura Vida and buen camino
Ps: tomorrow I’m looking for a waterfall!!!