Day 20: 37 kilometers (10k side adventure to a waterfall!)
Total: 631.2 kilometers
Today was amazing! I headed out bright and early for the star light and moonlit walk and it was so beautiful! The moon lit the path so that it jumped out of the landscape! It was incredible! Occasionally I turned on my headlamp because I saw the reflection of water but it was so much better just by the moon light! Walking on the trail I looked up and the moon was shining so bright I could see a moon-bow. The moon was so bright it’s aura was a rainbow!!! It was beautiful! The moon shined so bright just like the story of the Christmas star. Arriving into Foncebadon the sun started to shoot up over the mountains. It was incredible! Light shot over and filled the sky with color. Have I told you that I love mornings?!
I walked into the town of Foncebadon and saw a door open at an Albergue that also had a sign for coffee. It was like a dream! This place was incredible! Self serve breakfast and coffee and a display of fruits and breads. As I sipped on my coffee I looked at the flyers on the wall and saw yoga. I asked the owner, Felipe, about it and he said every day at 8. I also asked him about a rumor of a waterfall and he said he would tell me after yoga over breakfast. It was a magical place. I went out the back door and headed to the yoga studio which smelled of incense and felt absolutely amazing. Three other people joined me for one of the best yoga classes I have been to,. We started out moving and loosening our joints with sweet music humming in the background. I felt the flow of everything and really just went with my body. It was a special moment for me because I usually enjoy yoga and all of its moves but this was more just feeling out your body and what it could do. We did quite a few stretches and quite a few poses too. What i liked best was the breath of fire which was incorporated to quite a few moves. It was all in Spanish but I flowed so well and felt amazing! I let go completely and found myself spiraling into happiness with every movement. Sometimes I would close my eyes and just do what feels best and would keep doing that for as long as I felt was right! This is how Yoga should be – a look inside yourself on your own terms with the teacher just being your guide. I never felt pressured to do anything or stop doing anything! It was truly a magical class that even with my eyes closed i could see the energy of the other magical people in class! So cool! We did a bevy of work on the sacral chakra and it felt so good. I was connected, so connected this day but also flying at the same time! What a day this was turning out to be! The Albergue felt amazing and so did the yoga. The breakfast was delicious and the company was the best. If I could move anywhere right now I would instantly move there! We talked about it and they would love to have me stay there because they really enjoyed my spirit as I enjoyed all of theirs!
So with a breakfast and another coffee in my belly and rough directions on how to get to this secret waterfall I headed out! Turns out I missed the first turn because they didn’t tell me I had to jump the barb wire fence. I did however take a picture of a topographical map which came in handy. It was good to know the contours of the land and also with the morning sun still in the east my shadow guided me around the mountains and valleys!
After going down the steepest loose stone mountain face i felt was the right way, I came to an intersection and made the right choice by going left! Within 20 more minutes I followed a small river to a sign that talked about the waterfall and the trees and animals around that they are trying to protect. I was there! I could hear the sound of rushing water and just 300 meters later I could see the falls.
It was a magical place that I wish I brought a tent because I would have stayed there too! I did take a few pictures and then jump into it’s freezing waters because I believe that waterfalls and springs are fountains of youth! Colors were brighter and I was moving fast after my dip in the water! My body instantly became numb and it felt amazing! I basked in the sun as I changed out of my wet shorts and into dry clothes. I loved this spot and am so glad I made the detour to leave the camino to come here! On the way back I saw another path and took it! It was so much easier! I loved it. Beautiful walk up along a river with birds singing and sun shining! I made it back in time to have lunch at my favorite Albergue and then I would head out! First I basked in the beautiful sun on the porch. Whilst basking I saw my friend Pierre from France who I have bumped into a few times! I said I would catch up at the next town as d he said cool and Olivia is coming behind him. Very cool! After enjoying the sun for a bit with lunch I headed out to head to the highest point on the camino – the Cruz de ferro!
It was beautiful up on the top! I thought it would be a bigger climb than it was but in no time I was there! I have had my white heart stone in my pocket since the first time I stepped into the Mediterranean Sea right when I first arrived into Spain for the Strong Like Bull Training Camp. I wrote my symbol for unconditional love on it with a red permanent marker , squeezed it and put it next to the cross atop all of the other stones and wishes. From there I surveyed around. It really was a amazing place with views like no other. I didn’t expect a road and a park to be right next to it but it was nice seeing the kids playing and laughing at their picnics. After the Cruz de Ferro the path was right next to the road and heading down.
Not too long I saw this awesome sign with arrows pointing all over the world with distances to the places! It was so cool! I saw Machu Picchu and was taking a picture when a beautiful girl came down and asked to take it for me! Of course! I was in the picture too! I found out her name was Paula and from Brazil and she was the hospitalera here. Her boyfriend Ricky was excellent too! They walked the camino and fell in love with it and now are working on it with dreams of eventually starting a community for pilgrims on the camino somewhere. It’s a beautiful idea and they both have such good energy I am sure it is on their path. When it happens I will definitely make a trip to it! Such beautiful people enter my lives and the best thing is that we keep in touch! I hope to stay in touch with these two amazing souls and meet them down the road one day!
I went up to the table and hung out with my friend Pierre who was there and Ricky and Paula and a few other pilgrims who came and went. One girl from Korea name Juhee had a ukulele and took it out and played the most beautiful song! Music is magical! Even though the song was in Korean I felt it like I knew every word! She had the most beautiful voice. It reminded me of the time in Grañon when Barbara sang in the night in the church. It was a great day! I hung out there for pretty much the whole afternoon just talking and laughing and then at 5pm one of the last Templars, Tomas, came back to the place and then performed a ceremony which I watched. It was interesting and one more experience to add to my camino. Just as the ceremony was going to start Olivia showed up which was awesome. She actually took a nap at the Cruz de Ferro and said she would come with Pierre and I to the next town. It was a lot of technical downhill so it would be good to go together to keep an eye on eachother.
We talked walked and laughed. It was a really fun walk. We all made a heart together. A really big one! Then we walked some more and decided it would be cool to see the sunset from our perch on the mountain before we headed down to the town. We were in sight of the town of Acebo and found a nice spot just before another steep part. We sat down and layed down laying in the sun. It was beautiful. I put a little music on and actually nodded off a few times. I didn’t have any food but Pierre and Olivia had some and we all split it. It was an awesome end of the day. We sat there and talked and watched the sun set and it was amazing. It started getting cool so after the sun was hid behind the mountain on the horizon I stood up and turned around to the biggest moon in the history of moons just above the mountain ridge! It was incredible!!!!!! I had the moon in one hand and the sun setting in the other! I was in heaven, I’m sure of it! Such a beautiful moment.
After that we headed down with a little bit of light left and made it into town. We found the Albergue and checked in. The hospitalero Claus was an interesting fellow. He seemed like he loved talking and was lonely at the same time. He said he has walked the camino many times and many routes. Every year he needs to get away from his wife and kids to be alone and then he is lonely. It was a little weird. He talked about so much work he had to do to run the Albergue but would accept no help. Well with that said we came in late because we watched the sunset and he said we missed dinner. No worries because Olivia had rice and we could make a meal. Oh but no. The rules say only the hospitaleros are allowed in the kitchen. He wouldn’t let us cook because it was too late and we would wake everybody up even though everyone staying there was in the dining room. So I went out to the bar before he locked the door at 10pm sharp and picked up bread and chocolate. Pierre, Olivia and me shared a banana and butter and chocolate sandwich which made us all laugh as we sat next to the big kitchen. After that we all went to bed. Luckily it was warm in here and they had blankets too! Jackpot! Pura Vida and buenas noches and buen camino and adventure on!!!